Three lessons in vegetarian recipes from 2021

I have some culinary traditions at the end of the year: I sharpen my favorite knives. I clean and organize the kitchen, and try to cata...


I have some culinary traditions at the end of the year: I sharpen my favorite knives. I clean and organize the kitchen, and try to catalog the tiny lessons I’ve learned. Here are three that immediately come to mind:

Algae goes with everything! Eric Kim’s asparagus pasta cleverly draws umami from dried kelp, which scents rigatoni through the cooking water, and grilled seaweed, which add even more depth and texture as a garnish. I had never used seaweed in a creamy pasta dish before, but I will definitely do it again.

If you don’t have a gim in your pantry yet, this recipe might convince you to buy it in bulk. Roasted seaweed is excellent as a lightly smoked garnish on, for example, mushroom and cheese quesadillas, hot rice bowls with pickles and wilted greens, and wobbly microwaved eggs.

Strategy is the key to plate dinners. Cooking absolutely everything on a plate doesn’t make sense (sorry!), But cooking instant ramen noodles on a plate is genius. Hetty McKinnon dresses the boiled noodles in a little sesame oil and soy sauce, then adds marinated tofu and bok choy. All that surface area in the oven means chow mein-type noodles – tender in some places, crispy in others.

It’s such a cool technique, and you can adapt it with all kinds of different marinades and ingredients. Try a soy-ginger marinade with tons of sweet corn and thinly sliced ​​red onions, or a peanut marinade with broccoli florets and pickled peppers.

Some vegetables are more delicious when you cook them forever. If you haven’t done it before I know the thought of simmer the broccoli for an hour (a whole hour!) It might sound a little weird, but the broccoli ends up being wonderfully sweet and juicy, incredibly tender and luxurious.

If you don’t trust me, trust Alice Waters, who posted this recipe in “Chez Panisse Vegetables” in 1996. Or trust Nigella Lawson, who simmers peas for 4-6 hours to prepare the peas slowly cooked in “Cook, eat, repeat.” Trust Samin Nosrat, who embers his Roman beans for about 2 hours.

Still skeptical? i will leave you with something Claire de Boer, a chef at the King in New York once told me. She said if you just give certain ingredients a little extra time, if you don’t rush cooking, they can “become a deeper version of themselves.” ??

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