How to make chewy and tasty mashed potatoes

In his poem “ Digging “Irish poet Seamus Heaney describes the feeling of holding potatoes as” loving their cold hardness in our hands. “...


In his poem “Digging“Irish poet Seamus Heaney describes the feeling of holding potatoes as” loving their cold hardness in our hands. “This” cold hardness “is the start of a good mash, which should end with apples. of earth which have a deep taste in themselves but which avoid becoming pasty.

To preserve these tastes, I decided to try steaming the potatoes instead of boiling them first and was very pleased with the results. Letting the potatoes tenderize in a pot of bubbling water quickly works, of course, but tends to leave them waterlogged, diluting their natural flavor and causing the edges to peel off like a landslide. Keeping the peels on helps, but cooking whole potatoes often results in an overly soft shell around a too firm center.

Steamed potatoes are perfect. As I learned from my family’s Chinese cuisine, steaming intensifies the truest flavor of a vegetable. Applied to potatoes, the process also allows them to soften while absorbing the right amount of moisture and, because they are not salty, increases their inherent sweetness.

I have had the best results with Russet Burbank Potatoes, also known as Baked Potatoes. This is because they have large starch granules which swell and then separate during cooking, which means that they can be easily broken into pieces and easily absorb butter and milk. The cells of white, golden and red potatoes – waxy and less starchy – swell less and stick together, making them difficult to mash (not ideal for mashing, but nice for salads and potato gratins. Earth).

Once the roux are steamed, they should not be overworked to keep them soft. A potato masher is great for breaking up potatoes, but steamed roux just as easily flakes under a fork, which is thinner than a potato masher and more common in any kitchen. Just be sure to avoid using a food processor or blender: if you shear the potato starches with a blade, they get straight gooey.

The same goes for over-beating crumbled potatoes to incorporate other ingredients. Smoothing the potatoes just mashed with a little milk before adding them to the cold salted butter – great for creaminess – helps the golden pats fade quickly into the mixture. The rest of the milk is then whipped into the mixture to help aerate it. The fork should not slice violently and erratically through the mash, but rather spin like a big wheel, steady and smooth, up and down and back.

The seasoning at the very end gives you the opportunity to taste how tasty the mash already is thanks to the salted butter, then you can sprinkle just what you need. This final seasoning goes against the heavy and constant salting camp of potato cooks, but actually intensifies the deep and distinct earthiness of the potatoes. The same goes for white pepper, which also keeps the creamy mound spot-free.

Perhaps the biggest secret to chewy, non-mushy mashed potatoes is that they are even better when made a day or two ahead. In “CookWiseShirley O. Corriher explains how cooked potato starches ‘downshift’ when refrigerated, ensuring they don’t get sticky when reheated. It takes a little attention to detail and a lot of science to come up with a great mashed potato, but nothing is easier than removing the cold hardness from a container of mashed potatoes in the fridge to warm up a busy vacation.

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