The fried oysters are delicious. They're even better at home.

I have no first memory of an oyster. She was ousted by so many others, lively and indelible, who followed. There was a fried oyster po...


I have no first memory of an oyster. She was ousted by so many others, lively and indelible, who followed.

There was a fried oyster po ‘boy whom I once asked a taxi driver to take a detour on my way to the airport. I made him stop and wait outside Domilise’s in New Orleans while I had one last sandwich – juicy, hot, topped with gravy and wrapped in a light bun – to take with me on a return flight to New York. Never mind that I had already had one every day of my visit.

There was a three-tiered platter of local oysters in Brittany, on the French coast – low tide, the boats stuck in the mud looking like sleeping dogs on a leash in their backyards. The air itself was an oyster – loamy and mineral to the inspiration, with the sky pearl gray to the horizon. A whole bottle of Muscadet sur lie and a whole buttered baguette, all afternoon.

For a year of my life, I was a member of Tony’s private club – a membership given to me as part of a barter deal. And there was a $ 1 oyster happy hour. I’ve been there as often as possible, trying to be low-key while admiring the fabulous ladies in cashmere socks, mink stoles, burgundy lipstick and burgundy eyebrows, most fine in the 80s. They were delighted. by the cut-price oysters, which came with lemon halves wrapped in gauze caps to trap the seeds.

That’s the thing about the oyster: it’s a workaholic. It can be dressed and dressed, arranged in pewter trays on a raw wooden table by the sea or tucked away in gold-rimmed porcelain for white tablecloths and leather banquettes for an exclusive club. There is no elitism about the oyster itself. Humble and lofty, it goes both ways. Uptown and downtown, hot and cold, cooked or raw – a miraculous thing though and wherever it lands.

What I love about a homemade fried oyster is the possibility of something not only nostalgic and postcard-like, but also very delicious.

For many people, it’s just not New Years Eve without a dozen ice cubes, and others feel the same about Valentine’s Day. But I invite you to also consider the oyster for Thanksgiving: peeled, simmered in its own liqueur, with cream, sherry, cayenne pepper and a sprig of thyme. Then spread with a spoon, hot, on a thin slice of dry white bread. The roast oyster opening our Thanksgiving meal is an experience I almost waited for the night before, much like a kid waiting for Christmas morning.

Perhaps everyone’s favorite is the summer experience of the fried seafood shack, the queue, the cheeky slogans of the tip jars. I love the way they pass the board through the screen window and call your number, in smart places from a deck of cards. Seven of hearts! Seven of hearts! And pull out your tray with the red plaid waxed paper and perfectly greasy nuggets fried by a teenager in ill-fitting clear plastic gloves.

But one thing you usually can’t get to such a place, these are particularly good fried oysters. The pleasures of these summer seafood shacks can also be their disappointments. To produce at that kind of volume, you have to, well, produce at that kind of volume. Sacks and bags of store-bought shelled oysters, covered with commercial breadcrumbs, taken out of commercial freezers. What I love about a homemade fried oyster is the possibility of something not only nostalgic and postcard-like, but also very delicious.

To freshly scale your own plump oysters, rinse them in their brackish liquor, dredge them very lightly and fry them to order. It is, in my book, a kind of gastronomy. We use Meaty Long Island Sound Blue Points because they are quite large and can withstand fry. Keep the shelling clean, chippings free, expert, no matter what oyster, what cove, what farm. The dredge is seasoned flour, beaten egg and panko, the Japanese breadcrumbs that fried so crisp and airy. After delicately coating each oyster, let it dry on a baker’s rack so that a crust forms. This way, when fried, they are locked in with confidence and will not split open, and the brackish vapor of the juicy oyster is sealed inside.

The homemade fried oyster is already a victory. But it really is as much a pretext for the tartar sauce. This one is sparkling and vibrant, with capers and pickles – and some of the liquids they’re packed in – as well as chopped raw shallots. The spiciness and shine comes from the sour cream and lemon juice. There’s no sugar, no clay to the traditional American-style pickle relish you usually get in the summer seafood shack.

Sometimes for a gathering, we rub the bottom half of the oyster shells, cut side, and dry them thoroughly for a neat presentation. We then pour the tartar sauce into the cup and place the fried oyster on it. Fan them out on a bed of rock salt. For brunch, we slip a few fried oysters and a spoonful of tartar sauce into a three-egg omelet and serve with a Tabasco coulis and icing sugar on the side. Give it a try. I am not joking. It’s addicting.

And if it’s lunchtime, try stacking a generous half-dozen fried oysters in a fresh sliced ​​baguette with iceberg lettuce shavings and paper-thin tomatoes. Brush the whole thing with more tartar sauce. Ideal at your kitchen table, or even in the back of a taxi on the way to the airport.

Recipe: Fried Oysters With Tartare Sauce

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Newsrust - US Top News: The fried oysters are delicious. They're even better at home.
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