Oliva, with tapas, opens in West Harlem

Headlining Oliva This bright and spacious Spanish tapas restaurant is a new addition to West Harlem. It opens in the three-month-old M...


This bright and spacious Spanish tapas restaurant is a new addition to West Harlem. It opens in the three-month-old Manhattanville Market food court, part of the Jerome L. Greene Science Center at Columbia University. Like the rest of the market, it’s run by chef and restaurateur Franklin Becker, who has appointed Chris Strelnick in charge of Oliva as head chef. The choices of cold cuts include premium Iberian hams. There are also cheeses, and around thirty hot and cold tapas. Most are classics like pan con tomate, potato tortilla, garlic shrimp, meatballs, and salt cod croquettes. Plates of chicken with pepper and almond sauce, squid or octopus with potatoes and peppers and, for two people, a socarrat, which is a crispy paella rice with seafood and aioli, are a little more filling. . The essential desserts are churros, Catalan cream and chocolate cream with olive oil, salt and almonds. Most of the wines, ciders and beers and even many spirits on the deep list come from Spain and were assembled by beverage consultant Eamon Rockey. He also created the cocktails, often with a Spanish twist, including the sherry. Seating is in an elevated area on one side of the market, with outdoor tables as well.

Manhattanville Market, 3229 Broadway (130th Street), 917-522-0391, olivatapas.com.

Jeremiah Stone and Fabián von Hauske Valtierra of Contra and Wildair, as well as John Ratliff of Ends Meat, opened this place for burgers in the Market Line food hall on the Lower East Side. The menu consists of thin five-ounce grass-fed beef patties, single or double, with or without cheese, plus a hot dog and fries. The meat comes from the Duell Hollow Farm in Buskirk, NY

Market Line, 115 Delancey Street (Essex Street), no phone, Mightyburgers.com.

When this restaurant opened in 2019, it offered casual cuisine, mostly bowls, for lunch. At dinner, a sliding panel revealed a simple but more elegant dining area for kaiseki-style kappo menus. It closed in March 2020 and has now reopened with a new chef and a less formal approach. Now it’s a single bespoke restaurant for lunch and dinner, but still with a counter option. Tokyo’s new chef, Hideaki Kobayashi, serves lunch bowls with a focus on raw fish, cooked seafood, and tofu. The dinner menu lists small platters like karaage chicken, sashimi, chawanmushi, fried oysters, and black truffle potato croquettes. There is also tempura, donburi, shabu shabu, udon with tempura and sukiyaki.

38, rue Rector (rue Washington), 646-596-8298, chikarashiisso.com.

Chef Nina Compton’s New Orleans restaurant, a showcase of her personal take on the Gulf Coast and Caribbean, will move to Intersect by Lexus starting October 20. He follows The Gray and Manresa in the establishment’s second-floor restaurant residency program. Ms. Compton’s à la carte menu will feature dishes such as tamarind pork belly and green chutney, striped bass escovitch with jerk carrots and doberge cake with lemon cream and buttermilk lemon sorbet. There will also be a tasting menu. Intersect by Lexus plans to donate to Second Harvest Food Bank in New Orleans. Reservations can be made from Wednesday; Compère Lapin will be in residence from Wednesday to Sunday until January 2022.

Intersection by Lexus – NYC, 412 West 14th Street, 212-230-5832, intersect-nyc.com.

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