It's time to scramble

Hello again… and goodbye! We’ve reached September, which means Sam Sifton is back on the grid and will be back in your inbox on Friday....


Hello again… and goodbye! We’ve reached September, which means Sam Sifton is back on the grid and will be back in your inbox on Friday.

In the meantime, have you ever made jam? I simmered my first batch in college after reading a recipe for plum jam in Laurie ColwinIt’s awesome “No more home cooking. “It was his relaxed instructions that attracted me: no precise timing, no temperamental temperatures, no frightening warnings about sterilizing jars (which you don’t need to do if you are doing a small batch for. fridge, which will be gone in a week) You just simmer the fruit and sugar until it looks like jam; that’s it!

Now I do small batches every time I frantically buy, say, too many late season peaches because I know they’re on the verge of extinction. When they all ripen, it’s storage time. Yewande Komolafe has a excellent piece in the Times Food section on this desire to preserve, as well as three spellbinding recipes: FIG jam flavored with rosemary; a dynamic non-cook plum-ginger jam (above) which, she writes, “captures the joy of biting into a cold, crisp plum”; and a wig apple jelly it’s the first on my list. I could do it this weekend so I can serve it for Rosh Hashanah dinner. It would be nice with honey to coat olive oil challah.

There will definitely be some kind of fruit chicken dish on the holiday menu to bring a sweet New Year. Maybe that plate recipe with roasted plums and onions, Where roast chicken with pears and figs. I could do anything and do chicken soup, too, maybe Joan Nathan’s recipe with matzo balls. And I can serve everything next to David Tanis’s summer vegetable salad with grilled eggplant and a little anchovy (yum) before finishing with a apple cider honey cake.

Of course, there will be a lot of meals before that. Tonight might involve roasting the gorgeous multi-colored peppers that are filling the markets right now. Roasting is a misnomer because you really are charring them.

Grilling them, if you have one, is the easiest option. Just throw the whole peppers over high heat and turn them over with tongs until the skin is blackened and wrinkled all over. (The grates above your stove’s gas burners also work.) Or use the grill: cut the peppers in half through their stems and place them on a baking sheet, cut side down. Grill as close to the heating element as possible.

Put these peppers in a bowl, cover with a plate and steam until they are just cool enough to handle. Then remove the charred pieces of skin and any seeds with your fingers, wiping your hands on a towel as you go. Do not rinse the peppers, it will just dilute their sweet juice.

I like to season the peppers with flaky sea salt, then cover them with good olive oil and minced garlic (and basil and anchovies if you like). They keep for at least a week in the refrigerator and three or four months in the freezer. Serve them for a light dinner with olives, fresh goat cheese or Camembert cheese, avocado slices and toasted or toasted country bread rubbed with the cut side of a clove of garlic. If you need more protein, add tuna or sardines to the oil straight from the can.

We also have plenty of recipes for other delicious late summer meals, like this herb creamy Soup Corn with optional squash blossoms. Can’t wait to do Ali Slagle’s grilled shrimp with ginger and mint. And to satisfy my ever-ready sweet tooth, Samantha Seneviratne’s apple cider pies are just the thing to take us into the fall.

Need more options? We have thousands and thousands at New York Times Kitchen, and early fall is a great time to subscribe.

You will also find our news on Twitter, cooking videos (including a brand new de Sohla and Ham El-Waylly) on our Youtube channel, and lots of stories, tips and photos on Instagram (where am I @clarkbar, come say hello). And if you have technical or culinary questions, contact us at cookingcare@nytimes.com; there is always someone available to help you.

That’s all for the moment!



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Newsrust - US Top News: It's time to scramble
It's time to scramble
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Newsrust - US Top News
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