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In Fall’s Biggest Openings, Experience Is on the Menu


In Brooklyn, the Nikkei chef Ricardo Zarate will bring a spinoff of his Las Vegas restaurant, Once (pronounced on-SEH), to Carroll Gardens with dishes like Japanese eggplant ceviche, braised short ribs with pickled miso vegetables and grilled shrimp with yuzu.

Ryan Bartlow worked at Frenchette in New York and Alinea in Chicago, but his experience at Akelarre in San Sebastián, Spain, is what will drive the cooking at his much-delayed restaurant, Ernesto’s, on the Lower East Side. The restaurant will feature Basque-inspired food — whole baby fried mullet, fried cod cheeks, hake in green sauce, and braised rabbit with walnuts, Rioja-style — in an airy, glass-enclosed setting.

Channeling another part of Southern Europe, Cathédrale will offer French-Mediterranean pissaladière, bouillabaisse and rotisserie chicken chasseur by the executive chef Jason Hall, who cooked at Gotham Bar and Grill. The new place, in the Moxy East Village hotel, has a trim open kitchen glowing with polished copper, a zigzagging bar and a soaring arched dining room in a space that reaches deep underground. It’s the most dramatic-looking newcomer this season, with more than 300 seats; such grandeur is typical of the owners, Tao Group Hospitality. The restaurant’s name is meant in part to evoke the Fillmore East, the 1960s music hall nearby that was nicknamed the Church of Rock ‘n’ Roll. At Cathédrale, the Italian artist Edoardo Tresoldi has installed an ethereal mesh sculpture titled “Fillmore” on the ceiling.

For French food, I’m also excited about the reopening of Le Veau d’Or, the vintage bauble that is being refreshed by Riad Nasr and Lee Hanson of Frenchette. Another favorite food group of mine, Middle Eastern fare will arrive with the opening of Shukette, the latest from Vicki Freeman, Marc Meyer and Chris Paraskevaides of Cookshop and Vic’s. Ayesha Nurdjaja, the chef and a partner, will make use of a charcoal grill.

Christina Tosi’s Milk Bar chain will establish its flagship in the former John Dory Oyster Bar, in the Ace Hotel New York. New items will include apple pie soft-serve with pie-dough crumble and a roll stuffed with eggplant Parm. The company will also move its cooking classes here from Williamsburg, Brooklyn. And if I’m eager for the opening of the next Daily Provisions cafe from Union Square Hospitality Group, it’s because its crullers and an expanded dinner menu will be a welcome addition to my Upper West Side neighborhood.

When it comes to long experience, it’s hard to compete with Pastificio G. Di Martino, which has been making excellent dry pasta near Naples, Italy, since 1912. The company is opening a store, a pasta bar and restaurant in the former Green Table space in Chelsea Market.

Still, there are some genuine newcomers to watch, like Alessandra and Mario De Benedetti, the first-time restaurateurs opening Il Fiorista. They recently moved to New York from Northern Italy, where Ms. De Benedetti was a professor and her husband was in private equity, but both, now in their 50s, wanted a change of scene where they could work together. Theirs is a light-filled restaurant with a flower shop in the front that Ms. De Benedetti will run, with abundant edible flowers adorning Mediterranean food by the chef, Garrison Price, who was at Il Buco Alimentari e Vineria and Clover Club.

Opening in the coming week:

Canal Street Oysters 380 Canal Street (West Broadway), 646-448-4032, Sept. 9.

Llama San 359 Avenue of the Americas (Washington Place), 646-490-4422, llamasannyc.com. Sept. 5.

Opening later:

(All dates are subject to change)

Cathédrale 112 East 11th Street, September.

232 Bleecker 232 Bleecker Street (Carmine Street), 232bleecker.com, October.

Daily Provisions 375 Amsterdam Avenue (78th Street), September; also 29 Bedford Street (Downing Street), November.

Da Toscano 24 Minetta Lane (Avenue of the Americas). November.

Di Martino Pasta Bar Chelsea Market, 75 Ninth Avenue (15th Street), December.

Ernesto’s 259 East Broadway (Montgomery Street), late fall.

Il Fiorista 17 West 26th Street, 646-490-8240, ilfioristanyc.com, September.

Le Veau d’Or 129 East 60th Street, December.

Milk Bar 1196 Broadway (29th Street), October.

Once 315 Smith Street (Union Street), Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn. October.

Piggyback NYC 140 West 30th Street, October.

Shukette 230 Ninth Avenue (24th Street), September.

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