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Aglianico in Its Own Right

Category: Food & Drink,Lifestyle

★★1/2 Terre degli Svevi Aglianico del Vulture Re Manfredi Serpara 2012 $49

Deep and elegant, with complex flavors of dark fruits, menthol and chocolate. (Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York)

★★1/2 Grifalco Aglianico del Vulture Gricos 2016 $20

Earthy and intense, yet easy to enjoy, with bittersweet flavors of red fruits and minerals. (SoilAir Selection, New York)

★★1/2 Terre degli Svevi Aglianico del Vulture Re Manfredi 2013 $36

Concentrated, earthy and tannic, with fresh, balanced flavors of dark fruits and minerals. (Frederick Wildman & Sons)

★★1/2 Mastroberardino Taurasi Radici 2014 $49

Firmly tannic, with bittersweet flavors of spicy red fruits. (Leonardo LoCascio Selections/Winebow)

★★1/2 Lonardo Taurasi 2012 $45

Light-bodied, floral and elegant, with pure, bittersweet flavors of red fruits. (Polaner Selections, New York)

Pairings: Neapolitan Pasta With Swordfish

The lusty foods and intense wines of southern Italy provide inspiration to spare for cooks and connoisseurs. San Marzano tomatoes, fresh mozzarella, succulent olives, tender pastas and fragrant olive oils, alone or combined, spell sheer enjoyment. The typical red wines, like the commendable assortment of aglianicos and Taurasis we tasted, provide earthy, darkly brooding complements to this happy, familiar fare. The roots of red-sauce Italian, ever popular in the United States, are in the South — in Campania and its capital, Naples, as well as in Puglia and Basilicata. This recipe is a riff on the traditional pasta alla puttanesca, with tomato, capers, olives and garlic, but without the anchovies. I went bigger on the fish front, with chunks of seared swordfish to bolster the mixture with meaty, briny notes. FLORENCE FABRICANT

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