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Refined British Restaurant Found Hiding in a Brooklyn Bar

Category: Food & Drink,Lifestyle

Grilled flatbread looks out of place on this menu, but it is a fine canvas for roasted hens-of-the-woods and other wild mushrooms that are fleshy and flavorful enough to get noticed on their own. Skate, a main course, comes with smoked German butterball potatoes and a soaring, fino sherry-laced beurre blanc. The salad of radicchio and other bitter lettuces is as crisp and refreshing as any plate of leaves can be in February. It is also a very good thing to eat with steak, as it happens.

Anyone who has not caught on to the English theme so far will get a last chance with the dessert menu, which offers treacle tart, sticky toffee pudding, a posset and three cheeses, all from England. The treacle tart was dry when I had it. The sticky toffee pudding was surprisingly but not unpleasantly cakelike. The posset, though, is a small miracle, an eggless custard of sugar, lemon juice and cream scented with Earl Grey tea, dressed up with Cara Cara orange wedges and a few Earl Grey meringues. There should be more possets around town. There should be possets galore.

And by the way, there should be more wine lists like Cherry Point’s. Assembled by Garret Smith, who owns the restaurant with Vincent Mazeau, it consistently favors obscure and surprising over familiar and dull. By the bottle, there are oddities such as apple wine and mead, but also a few things you might have heard of: a cremant d’Alsace from Dirler Cadé, a Sybille Kuntz riesling, an Olga Raffault chinon and a lean, exact pinot noir from Enderle & Moll. Only two bottles, both sparkling wines, are over $100, and most of the others are closer to $50.

At these prices, you could just close your eyes and pick something, which is lucky because the servers, though charming and truly unpretentious, haven’t fully internalized the list’s ins and outs. It’s one of the ways in which Cherry Point seems not to have caught up yet with how good it has become.

If you treat it like a bar, you might not notice. But if you eat the way I did, ordering half the menu at a time, you could be putting more stress on the infrastructure than it can handle. You might be in for a very slow meal. But it will also be a very good meal.

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