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A Pleasing Brew From Yunnan Province

Category: Food & Drink,Lifestyle

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This single-origin coffee is from a region usually known for its teas.

CreditSonny Figueroa/The New York Times
Florence Fabricant

Among the more unique single-origin coffees is this new import from Yunnan Province in China, a region usually known for its teas. But there is a budding coffee culture, established to combat poverty in this area of southwestern China, bordering Vietnam, Myanmar and Laos. Thanksgiving Coffee Company of Northern California is now roasting this Yunnanese coffee that the company blends together from two estates and sells as medium-roast Manlao River Specialty Coffee. (It’s imported by Global Coffee Trading.) I brewed it in a French press with a full-bodied result that had pleasing bitter chocolate notes.

Manlao River Specialty Coffee, Yunnan Province Coffee, China, $17 for 12 ounces whole bean or ground, thanksgivingcoffee.com.

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Florence Fabricant is a food and wine writer. She writes the weekly Front Burner and Off the Menu columns, as well as the Pairings column, which appears alongside the monthly wine reviews. She has also written 12 cookbooks.


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